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Bonsai plants require re-potting every two to three years. I know some
growers who re-pot every year, whether it is needed or not. Repotting is
needed when lots of rootlets appear through the drainage hole or when
the roots seem to be forcing the plant out of the pot. Regular two to
three year re-pottings are necessary to re-new the soil, even if the
roots have not outgrown the container. I prefer to re-pot in early
spring when bud formations are just beginning, meaning that the sap is
rising and the limbs of the plant will be supple. When the plants are in
a dormant stage, the limbs are stiff and difficult to bend. The reason
for concern about the suppleness of the limbs is that at the time of the
second-potting, any wiring that you want to do to alter the shape of the
plant should be done at this time. Some growers wire on the first
potting, but I think one has put enough strain on the tree when heavy
pruning is done and I prefer to let the tree gain strength before adding
another strain with wire.
Things that should be done on second
re-potting include, replacing at least two-thirds of the soil, pruning
long or crossing roots and wiring top-growth for shape. Other than
these, the same practices are used as was suggested for the original
potting.
Replacing the soil is a simple process of gently working old soil off
the root ball and adding a fresh batch. Root pruning is done to further
dwarf the habit of the plant as well as encourage the growth of new
feeder roots. The large roots that were originally pruned back one-third
can be pruned again about one-third. Clip off any small roots that grow
beyond the container, whether through the drainage holes or over the
sides of the container.
The tree is then planted back in its pot and wired into the container
if necessary. The wiring of the branches can now be done. To do an
extensive wiring job it is necessary to place a wire of considerable
strength along the entire trunk line. The wire should always be copper
and it should be just large enough to hold the trunk in place. Begin by
placing the wire into the soil at the back of the tree and spiralling it
up the trunk line to the top of the tree. If you need wire to train
large branches, another length should be started at the same point as
the first one. Do not cross the first wiring but instead follow the same
spiralling pattern that you have established to the point where you will
leave the trunk to wire the branch, at which point wrap the wire around
the branch to be altered. If you wish to alter the shape or development
of small branches, wire can be attached to the trunk at the point where
the limb and trunk are attached. All the wire should be firmly wrapped
to the tree but not so firm that it will cut into the bark of the plant.
Now gently bend the limbs and trunk to the desired position and the
copper wire will hold the bends in place. Leave the wires on for about
three months and then remove them. If it is a young plant, you will be
astonished to see the limbs and trunk stay in place as you wired them.
If it is an older tree, the wire should stay on for six months before it
is removed. If you did not get the entire effect you wanted with the
first wiring, you can wire it again but give the tree a rest until the
following spring before it is done.
Consider these points as you are bending and wiring. Do not try to
bend the limb to the point of breaking it. If you cannot get the total
effect you want in this first wiring, you can always go back and apply a
little more pressure on the next wiring. The reason for using only
copper wire is significant. Copper wire is pliable before it is bent,
but after the bending takes place it is firm enough to hold the trunk
and branches in place. It is possible to use the same wire again by
heating it, which will make it possible to straighten the wire to make
it usable. Heat softens the metal making it supple once again. When the
wire is cooled, it is ready for re-use. I use a burner on the gas range
for heating wire but it can also be done on a charcoal grill or with a
small blow torch. I often heat wire before using it the first time to
alter the color of the metal. I find that shiny wire is detracting and
by heating it the color is changed to a dull finish, making it less
noticeable on the trunk. When you are finished wiring, check the soil
again, making sure you have not disturbed it during the wiring process.
I usually go back and firm it in with the end of a blunt pencil whether
it needs it or not.
When the limbs and trunk are in the place whero you intended them,
you have a bonsai developing. The only work left for you is the pinching
and pruning of new growth in the spring and root-pruning at re-potting
time.
I'm sure this sounds awfully difficult to a beginner. And it is,
until you get the feel of it; but after you do, it will be as easy as
tying your shoes. Remember to take the whole project gently and with
great patience. Plants are like people; they like gentle training with
little or no hard shoves. |
