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The real secret to bonsai lies in the pruning process. Pruning usually
continues throughout the life of the plant but major pruning is only
done at the first or second potting. When a plant has developed enough
limbs to show its potential, whether it is from a seedling, rooted
cutting or nursery can, you should be able to look at it to decide the
style you want to follow and do major pruning to develop the branches
you wish to be significant.
Pruning the Roots
Pruning is done to the roots and the top portion of the plant at the
time of its initial potting. Often you may find plants that have good
potential but need further development before they are ready for a
bonsai container. If a plant has an excessive root system for its amount
of top-growth, you sometimes have to prune the roots gradually, year
after year, until you get them down to the size you would like them to
be. If a plant has a long sprawling root system, you can safely take off
one-third of the length at each pruning. This root pruning causes the
plant to develop a more compact and fibrous root system, with lots of
feeder roots close to the trunk. The pots used for this period in the
life of the bonsai are called training pots and they can be just a
regular pot with good drainage. This training can also take place by
planting the tree outside, assuming that it is hardy, and removing it
from the soil annually for its pruning. The roots of a plant support the
top growth and when they are removed, it puts a strain on the rest of
the roots. On the other hand, it is not necessary to prune roots each
time you prune foliage. The best time to root-prune is in early spring.
I follow this rule even for my plants that are used inside, even though
I do have a greenhouse.
Before you do any top-pruning of any sort, place the plant on a table
in its nursery container or whatever is holding the root ball in place
and consider it carefully as a developing bonsai. Remove the top portion
of the soil and with a small blunt stick, about the size of a pencil,
and expose about one-fourth of the plant's root system. The roots can
often be partially exposed if they add to the overall appearance of the
tree and they should be considered in selecting a style, along with the
trunk and the pattern of the branches. Study the tree carefully once
more to decide the style and also to determine the front and the back of
the tree. Now you can prune the unwanted branches. Consider the
following guidelines as you begin to prune. Branches should not cross
each other anywhere on the tree. If you have studied flower arranging
principles, apply them here as they are basically the same as pruning
principles when creating a picture perfect tree. Allow space between
branches to give the tree an open effect. The lowest branches on a tree
should be the largest ones.
Allow as much trunk and limb as possible to show on the lower portion
of the tree. Shorten branches that are too long and remove any branches
that bend backward or cross the trunk of the tree. Remember as you prune
to consider how mature, naturally developed trees look. Consider each
limb before it is removed by covering it with your hand and look at the
overall effect it has on the tree. If you feel unsure about just how
many limbs should be removed. Remove those that you know are not
desirable and pot the tree before pruning further.
In early spring expose the entire root system by removing all of the
soil gently with a blunt stick. If it is a small plant, soak it for a
few minutes and dip it up and down in a pail of water to remove the
soil. Do not use the dipping method if the plant has a large root system
that has lots of soil attached. The weight of the wet soil can cause
roots to become strained and break off. Remove the bulk of the soil
before using the dipping process, even with small trees, to prevent the
root breakage. When the soil has been completely removed, you can judge
the condition of the root system and better determine what should be
pruned. As was stated earlier, one-third of the root system can be
removed at its initial planting if done at the proper season.
The main roots to consider are the long big ones that will not fit in
the pot in which you would like the tree to be planted. Do not remove
any of the small hair-like roots near the base of the plant as they are
the feeder roots and are needed for the plant's survival. Try to get the
root system as shallow as possible so that it will fit in the low
containers. Let me point out here that sometimes a plant needs no root
pruning on the initial planting. If it will fit in the container you
have chosen without root-pruning, by all means forget root-pruning until
it is time to re-pot. Ideally, there should be a one inch margin beyond
the root span all the way around the inner surface of your container.
When you are satisfied that you have removed all necessary roots, the
tree is ready for the pot. Place a piece of small mesh wire, such as
window screen, over drainage holes in the pot and add a layer of soil to
the bottom of your container and spread the root system upon it. Do not
bundle the roots in a knot and stuff them in a pot as they will strangle
each other when they begin to grow. Spread them out as if you were
inspecting each and every one. The ideal root system has rootlets going
in all directions from the trunk. Sometimes it is necessary to mound the
dirt at the point where the trunk of the tree is placed. If a tree has a
tap root this is not necessary, but with some plants roots spread out
leaving a hollow section under the base of the trunk. The mounding also
helps in spreading the roots and adds to the aesthetic look of the
finished tree. I never have my trees planted flatly in their containers.
I have to create some hills and valleys as I go, due to my hillbilly
background. When you have the roots in place, there is one more thing to
consider. Does the tree need to be wired into the container or is it
stable enough to stay in position without wiring? Let's say that it does
not look as if it will stand on its own as you would like it to.
Stability can be achieved by wiring the root system to the container. To
do this place two lengths of copper wire through the drainage holes in
the bottom of the container. The wire is placed under the container with
the tying ends pulled up through the drainage holes and through the wire
mesh placed over them. You should now have four loose ends of wire, some
soil and a root system in your container. Decide where the wires should
be tied to give the most support in anchoring the roots. Tie the wires
together gently but firmly around the roots. Do not make them so tight
that they will cut into the roots or so loose that they will not
adequately anchor them. Wires can be anchored with a nail when you have
only one drainage hole. Place the nail on the bottom of the pot at the
drainage hole and secure wire to it. Now fill in the container with
soil, working it gently between and around all the roots. To leave air
pockets in a bonsai pot is a disaster, so be sure that all areas of the
root system have soil worked firmly around them. When the pot is filled
with soil, firm it at the top with the heel of your hand and work it
down so that it will be slightly below the pot's edge around the outside
perimeter. This will aid you in watering the plant which is needed
almost every day.
The first watering should be done at this time. The best way to do
this is to place the pot in a shallow container of water with the water
level just below the pot's edge. Allow the pot to remain until all the
soil is soaked. Now place it somewhere to drain and protect it from wind
and sun for a couple of weeks. More than likely the plant will not need
to be watered again for three or four days. Watch the soil at the base
of the trunk for dryness. When you see that drying has started, it will
be time to water again. This should be done with a syringe, never with a
heavy stream of water. A heavy stream would wash the soil out of the
container and disturb roots that should be very busy about this time.
Leave the plant in a protected area until you are sure it is capable of
its permanent environment. At this time it will be ready for its place
outside in the sun or inside in a bright area, depending on whether it
is for indoor or outdoor use.
If you desire, a layer of moss, either dried or fresh out of the woods
can be used on top of the soil to enhance the beauty of the developing
tree. The moss also serves to hold soil in place during frequent
waterings and as a mulch for holding moisture in the container. |
